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At any rate, it's time to join the body and the sleeves.
UNDERARM STITCHES
There are 4 underarm spots...2 on the body and one on each sleeve. EZ's
percentage method suggests we take 8% of the body sts (124) and put them
on a holder at each sleeve underarm and each body underarm...8 stitches
for each underarm in a total of 4 places = 32 sts.
To find each underarm area, look for the sections of DSS on each sleeve, and the wider sections of DSS on the body, one panel on each side of the sweater. Your underarm stitches are those stitches smack dab in the center of those stitch panels.
Note: You will notice that our beginnings-of-the-round spots are not anywhere near where we are taking sts off the needle...that's fine and don't get upset. Cut off any attached yarns leaving 8" for darning in, tuck the ends in to the inside of the knitting and try not to think about them until we are all done with the sweater.
Using very small stitch holders, it is possible to mark the sts of the body for the far side underarm very clearly without slipping them off the needle...when you knit across to them on your first round around the yoke of the sweater, you can slip those sts-on-a-holder off easily when you come to them, exposing the second underarm area over which you place the second sleeve.
OK. So all your underarm stitches are on holders. Fabulous. Ignore these sts until you are finished with the sweater.
YOKE PLANNING
The raglan yoke this wee sweater will have requires that we regularly
decrease sts, 8 per round, until we eat up enough stitches to begin the
neck. EZ's raglan percentage patterning informs us that this will happen
about every other round. My figuring shows me that this is mostly true,
and I will start the decrease rounds on round 4 of the yoke (not to be
confused with the 4th row of the pattern stitch!). My plans show me I
need 4" of yoke, which translates into 28 rounds of patterning. I found
this out by measuring 4" on the body and then counting the rounds. (Talk
about an accurate gauge swatch!). I will work a slight neck scoop to the
front, which means that 6 rounds shy of the 28, I will work some
(shudder) short row magic to accomplish this. (I promise to devote an
entire post to that move.)
RAGLAN DECREASE
I like the look of:
*slip raglan marker, knit in the back of the stitch, p2tog, work in pattern
to 2 sts before the next raglan marker, p2tog*.
Work this decrease from * to * a total of 4 times on decrease rounds.
The raglan marked sts will be the first and last sts of the front and the back. These are the next sts to the right and left of each sleeve underarm area you have marked.
Notes about decreasing into the pattern: There will come times when you don't have enough sts to complete making a cable after the decrease eats into it. Try to make a cable...get some sts to cross over to another place...even 1 over 2 or 1 over 1. It will work better and look better in the end. Be prepared to work a cable over less sts than you need, and then take a minute to critically examine it before you move on. Pull it out and redo it if you need to.
JOINING ROUND
Check and see what round you ended the body and sleeves stitch patterning
with. For me it was a round 4 finished, so I begin with round 5. Take out
a piece of paper and list, one per line, Yoke Rounds 1-28. Starting with
Yoke Round 4, put a "D" (for decrease) on every even round so you will
remember to decrease on those rounds. Keep your pencil handy and remember
that your Yoke Rounds are different than your Pattern Rounds (which have a
16 round repeat). Cross off each round of the yoke as you finish it.
Have ready 1 beginning of the round marker (red!). This will also be the first raglan line marker. Also, 3 more raglan line markers. (I used blue.)
Beginning (this will become the back left shoulder of the sweater) with a sleeve, join in a new ball of yarn and work onto 16" body needle as follows: p1; work in pattern to before the last st of the sleeve; p1. The sleeve needle is now empty and you may put it aside.
Place raglan line marker, work a twisted knit (knit into the back of the st) on the first stitch of the Body Front, p1, work across in pattern to before the last 2 sts of the Body Front; p1, place raglan line marker work a twisted knit. (You are now at the second underarm area of the body and have encountered the sts there that are on a holder...slip them off the 16" needle if you need to and then ignore them completely.)
Pick up the second sleeve and p1; work in pattern to before the last st of the sleeve; p1. The 2nd sleeve needle is now empty and you may put it aside.
Place raglan line marker, work a twisted knit on the first stitch of the Body Back, p1, work across in pattern to before the last 2 sts of the Body Back; p1, place red beginning-of-the-round marker, work a twisted knit.
You have finished Yoke Round 1 so mark it off your list of 28 Yoke Rounds. You have also finished Round __ (for me it was Round 5) of the Stitch pattern, so mark that off, too.
Proceed around and around up the yoke, staying in pattern and marking off rounds as they are finished. I suggest you stop after Round 22 is done and we'll work some short row magic to shape the neck.
Claudia at Countrywool